Travel Log: Mississippi Delta & New Orleans — April 2017

It’s hard to remember everything you did on a trip so sometimes I make a quick list of the things and the moments I want to remember. Today I’ll try one of these travel logs here as a blog post.

Saturday 4/15/2017

New Orleans
  • Land at airport. Pick-up car and drive north.
Jackson, MS
  • Stop at The Big Apple Inn for a Pig Ear sandwich.
  • Check out Medgar Evers old office and walk around
  • Lunch at Bully’s for some soul food and conversation with locals. Southern hospitality hits strong when  3 people welcome us to Mississippi and 1 gives us his card and says “If you need anything at all while you’re here let me know.”  We also met Virgi Lindsay who is running for city council and her manager Bill who was doing great work politickin’.
Clarksdale, MS
  • Stop at The Shack Up Inn, a motel/juke joint that I’d love to come back to and stay at.
  • Check into our hotel that is just a few blocks from the famous Crossroads where Robert Johnson supposedly sold his soul to the devil so he could learn the blues.
  • Reds juke joint for some beers and ripping music. The musician that night was Anthony “Big A” Sherrod & Allstars w/Space Cowboy. The next day as we were driving through Duncan, we saw Anthony “Big A” Sherrod listed as one of the blues greats from that town! Born on a Greyhound bus driving through Duncan…as the story goes

Sunday 4/16/2017

  • Drive south and stop in Duncan, MS to take photos
  • We see 9 armadillo road kills throughout the trip. The Internet says that this is a common sight
  • Drive down the 1 Mississippi highway. Lots a cool towns, pretty country, and historic marker signs for events, music, and culture
  • See buzzards eating a dead carcass on the side of the road for the first time. We also see them circling in the sky later
  • Stop at the Great River Road State Park in Rosedale, MS. A local lady tells us it’s been leased to a hunters club but the state ended the lease because they weren’t taking care of it. As a last F U they burned down the lookout tower and the state is rebuilding it before reopening the park
Vicksburg, MS
Natchez, MS
  • Gorgeous walk along the Mississippi riverfront at sunset. Natchez is one of those places where the interesting things and beauty you find there seems outsized for the place itself
  • Dinner at Magnolia Grill
  • End the day with card games in the hotel room

Monday 4/17/2017

New Orleans!
  • Cafe du Monde
  • Stumbled upon Frank Relle photography gallery. Great find here. Gorgeous Louisiana photos on the walls. They also have a chalk board where each day they have a quote and a thing happening in the city you should see. Clayton, the guy working in the gallery, was fun and not only told us about the photos but also gave us great recommendations for things to see
  • Laffite’s Blacksmith Shop
  • Dinner at 801 Royal
  • Walk around the French Quarter and Marigny neighborhoods
  • Listened to a hot jazz band at The Spotted Cat. It was a packed and very active club and looks like a place people know they can go to hear good music. Each time we went the crowd was a mix of people of all ages up to about 70
  • Stopped for lots of street musicians, all great
  • Passed a bar with a sign saying “Haircut and a shot $10”. We figured a Haircut was a drink but there was a salon chair bolted into the floor in front of the bar and people getting their haircut. This was at 11pm at R Bar
  • Found an eerily lifelike, double life size bust of Andy Warhol in a gallery window
  • Stopped at the bar across the street from our hotel, The 700 Club for a night cap. The bartender was disapproving of me and the guy next to me singing along with the Spice Girls

Tuesday 4/18/2017

  • Elizabeth’s for breakfast. (on Clayton’s suggestion) Wow!
  • Walked around Bywater
  • Enjoyed the second floor porch overlooking the street through the wrought iron railing
  • Sat at the rotating bar in the Carousel Bar & Lounge
  • Took a street car out to The Lafayette Cemetery
  • Peaked into Commanders Palace
  • Happened upon Bar Tonique. Great cocktails, interesting vibe, lots of locals. (Easily my favorite bar of the trip.)
  • Andouille sausage Po-boy at the Quarter Grocery. It was a random local shop but great sandwiches.
  • Rested at hotel
  • Listened to a singer songwriter at Three Muses
  • Muffaletta sandwich (yummmm) at Napoleon House
  • Front row seats for the Preservation Hall Jazz Band. As a lifelong jazz fan this was a highlight of the trip. I’ve seen them before in Reno at a concert but to see them at the small room, unmiced and cozy in Preservation Hall was a big treat
  • Heard lots of jazz of all styles at 3 different bars back in Marigny
  • 12am, back to Bar Tonique for a nightcap. We end up talking to lots of fun people over many good drinks and leave at 2:30am

Wednesday 4/19/2017

  • Breakfast at Cafe Beignet
  • Hit the Museum of New Orleans for art and a nice lunch at the cafe
  • Wander around the French Market
  • One more round of beignets at Cafe du Monde
  • Visit the National Park Service French Quarter Visitor Center for a little history
  • Stare in the windows at the Audubon butterfly exhibit
  • Wander into the Palace Cafe just to look. (You can tell at this point we peak into a lot of places just to see it)
  • Oysters at Felix’s Restaurant & Oyster Bar
  • One more Muffaletta at Napoleon House
  • Off to the airport for home!